Sunday was an incredible day in New Orleans. My friend and I rolled into town at about 9:30am after staying in Baton Rouge the night before. A huge rain storm came through during the night, but fortunately we made it through the bayou before it flooded the interstate and forced the cops to close it down for a while.
Pulling into town we could see hurricane damage on the side of hotels along the interstate - then we saw the worst of the devestation in the 9th Ward. I've never seen such destruction before in my life. (In person) It was like being in a wasteland.
Then we made it to the French Quarter. All of a sudden there was new life all around us. Fortunately Bourbon Street and the surrounding area didn't get hit quite so hard by the flooding. The music was back, the party people were back, and that great New Orleans vibe was back. Zydeco music was in the air, great food was being cooked, and people were having a great time.
We made it to the Jazz and Heritage Festival just in time to get a pretty good seat in front of the main stage.
After a couple of great blues artists (most notably Sonny Landreth), it was time for some real New Orleans music. Out came Allen Toussaint wearing an awesome Gold suit. He played and sang some of the greatest songs ever written - "Working in a Coal Mine," "Fortune Teller" (covered by the Rolling Stones), "Soul Sister," etc. Then he invited Elvis Costello on stage to sing a few songs from their new CD, The River In Reverse. Elvis was wearing a purple blazer, and it seemed to fit well alongside Allen Toussaint's Gold blazer. (Royalty colors)
Elvis sounded incredible and looked sharp. The new songs were super. (Especially the title track) I can't wait to get the CD. Then Allen closed the set alone with a few songs including a tribute to Wilson Pickett. ("Land of 1,000 Dances") His horn section was out of this world. It's no wonder Macca worked with him on Venus and Mars.
Following that incredible set I witnessed one of the most historic performances I will probably ever see. I know everybody keeps going on and on about Springsteen's performance Sunday night, but it was truely a moving experience. His new album, the Seeger Sessions, seemed tailor- made for the aftermath of Katrina. Uplifting songs about hope mixed with reflective songs about disappointment and the need to carry on filled the entire set. Most of his set was like a gospel sing-a-long. "Jacob's Ladder," "Mary Don't You Weep," "Eyes on the Prize," "My City of Ruins," "We Shall Overcome," etc. His energy was more powerful than ever - he seemed like a man on a mission.
As great as the Seeger Sessions CD is, this band absolutely kills live. Saying it rivals the E-Street Band isn't much of a stretch. The New Orleans style horn section was probably the most impressive part of the band. (Although he had a great banjo player, great fiddle players, and a great slide guitar player) Definately worth catching live.
All in all it was one of the greatest musical experiences of my life. It really felt like a part of history. There were thousands and thousands of people there - Allen Toussaint said it was possibly the largest crowd they've ever had for Jazz Fest.
I wish I could go again next weekend, but it's just not feasable. Fortunately they are having a live Web Cast so I'll have to catch it on my computer.

